"Feeding me rice again, I'll get ya ya little brat."
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Post a picture... any picture
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Massdrop Teac AI-101DA Integrated Amp
I purchased a Teac AI-101DA DAC integrated amplifier from Massdrop a month and a half ago, and now that it's arrived, I found a great deal on the next amp up in the Teac line; the 301 with matches my other Teac. I love these little Teac amps as they have a great feature set, but much better build quality than their competitors.
Amazon is currently selling this amp from $299.99 with Prime shipping, so I'll sell mine for the Massdrop price $208 plus actually shipping or pick-up; this is still new in box and I will include the original invoice.
USB DAC for PCM 192kHz/24-bit High-resolution Audio Streaming
2 Optical Audio Input supporting PCM 192kHz/24-bit
Bluetooth® aptX® Wireless Audio Streaming
26W + 26W Built-in Class-D Power Amplifier
BurrBrown PCM1796 D/A Converter
Up-conversion up to 192kHz
Asynchronous Transfer Mode
100mW + 100mW Headphone Output Power
DSP-based HR Loudness for maximized audio performance, applicable to all incoming audio signal including Analog Line In
Aluminum Front Panel and Case
Machined Aluminum Knobs
Iconic Side Guard Bars
Vertical and Horizontal Design
Auto Power Saving / Auto Power On
Muting
Remote Control
Binding-post Speaker Terminals
Subwoofer Pre-out for 2.1ch System
Amazon is currently selling this amp from $299.99 with Prime shipping, so I'll sell mine for the Massdrop price $208 plus actually shipping or pick-up; this is still new in box and I will include the original invoice.
USB DAC for PCM 192kHz/24-bit High-resolution Audio Streaming
2 Optical Audio Input supporting PCM 192kHz/24-bit
Bluetooth® aptX® Wireless Audio Streaming
26W + 26W Built-in Class-D Power Amplifier
BurrBrown PCM1796 D/A Converter
Up-conversion up to 192kHz
Asynchronous Transfer Mode
100mW + 100mW Headphone Output Power
DSP-based HR Loudness for maximized audio performance, applicable to all incoming audio signal including Analog Line In
Aluminum Front Panel and Case
Machined Aluminum Knobs
Iconic Side Guard Bars
Vertical and Horizontal Design
Auto Power Saving / Auto Power On
Muting
Remote Control
Binding-post Speaker Terminals
Subwoofer Pre-out for 2.1ch System
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Karma: Led Zeppelin Physical Graffiti lp
So my Uncle gave me two big plastic tubs of his and my aunt's old vinyl. In that was this Physical Graffiti album. It's the first release and its in good condition, I've ultrasonically cleaned it as well. I checked the issue serial number and this thing is only worth a bundle if it's still sealed.
Since it's roughly worth the same amount as a new pressing (which I own), I'm going to give it away. It's totally free (if you live in the continental US) for the person who can guess the right number that's between 1 and 20.
![tfoa3v21tczd.jpg]()
Since it's roughly worth the same amount as a new pressing (which I own), I'm going to give it away. It's totally free (if you live in the continental US) for the person who can guess the right number that's between 1 and 20.
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best center match for rt2000i mains
Need some help with matching a pair of rt2000i with a center.
Thank you,
Joe
Thank you,
Joe
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Rtia1 or Rtia3 for HT using SVS PB2000?
I currently have the pioneer bs 22s but am looking for more punch with my speakers. Polk's seems to have good prices with a higher treble to their sound signature. My question is whether to go for the RTiA1 or the RT8A3 if I'm running a subwoofer. My room is around 2000 ft.³ and I sit about 12 feet from the front speakers. This begs into question which center channel is needed as well.
In addition, there are some fantastic deals on the old RTI lineup on eBay. A pair of the RTi4 can be had for $120 and the CSi5 can be had for $135. They are in mint condition. Is this worth buying or are the newer RTiA series a jump in quality? Would love to hear some people's feedback. Thank you so much!
In addition, there are some fantastic deals on the old RTI lineup on eBay. A pair of the RTi4 can be had for $120 and the CSi5 can be had for $135. They are in mint condition. Is this worth buying or are the newer RTiA series a jump in quality? Would love to hear some people's feedback. Thank you so much!
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Big pile of assorted Signal Cable
I've downsized my audio system considerably, and have several cables that I no longer need. I'm still running Signal Cable exclusively, but I can part ways with the extras. All are in excellent condition. Here's what I have
Ultra Speaker Cables 10' (pair) terminated with Bananas
Classic Speaker Cables 8' (pair) terminated with Banana & Pins (see photo)
Analog II Eichman Bullet RCA 3' (2 pairs)
Analog II Eichman Bullet RCA 4' (pair)
Magic Power Cord 8'
Magic Power Digital Reference 3'
Silver Resolution Digital Coax ETI Bullet 2'
Spdif Digital Coax 2'
Turntable Ground Wire w/large spades 3'
What I'd really like to do is find a single buyer who wants all of this, maybe someone looking to step into fine cables for the first time. I'll give it a week to sell as a package before I separate everything individually.
Setting aside the turntable ground, which he doesn't even sell separately (it's part of a set when you buy his phono interconnects), this list of cables sells for $817 on Frank's site. He usually gives a discount, he'd probably do this order for about $750. I'll offer all of this as a package deal for $550 plus shipping (should all fit in priority flat medium).
The goods:
Ultra Speaker Cables 10' (pair) terminated with Bananas
Classic Speaker Cables 8' (pair) terminated with Banana & Pins (see photo)
Analog II Eichman Bullet RCA 3' (2 pairs)
Analog II Eichman Bullet RCA 4' (pair)
Magic Power Cord 8'
Magic Power Digital Reference 3'
Silver Resolution Digital Coax ETI Bullet 2'
Spdif Digital Coax 2'
Turntable Ground Wire w/large spades 3'
What I'd really like to do is find a single buyer who wants all of this, maybe someone looking to step into fine cables for the first time. I'll give it a week to sell as a package before I separate everything individually.
Setting aside the turntable ground, which he doesn't even sell separately (it's part of a set when you buy his phono interconnects), this list of cables sells for $817 on Frank's site. He usually gives a discount, he'd probably do this order for about $750. I'll offer all of this as a package deal for $550 plus shipping (should all fit in priority flat medium).
The goods:
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EL34 Tubes
For sale are 6 EL-34 Tubes 3 are GE labeled Mullards XF4 single halo getter types the 4th is an unknown tube with double halo getters and a brown base and the 5th tube is a Sylvania fat bottle with double disc getters the Sylvania has a broken guide pin, The 6th tube is a GE fat bottle with double disc getters, all test well at 14500 14500 14500 and 15500 for the unknown tube and 11500 for the Sylvania and 12500 for the GE fat bottle where 7000 is minimum good.
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![cm3octly7c6r.jpg]()
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Regards Snow
Regards Snow
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Home security tips?
I got this new house that I am away from more than not. I have a monitored alarm and some lights that I can control with my phone. I found this thing that simulates light from a TV that I am going to connect with a radio for noise. Does anyone have any other slick ideas to deter unwanted visitors while I am away? BTW I have no wifi so "Ring" and that stuff is out. I probably asked this before, so sorry if I did.
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Polk Signature Series Official Discussion
OK guys, it is all going live today. You are getting it here first.
The teaser sight has flipped to a full microsite with all of the details on each model.
http://signature.polkaudio.com
Lastly, here is the full version of that tease video:
Enjoy!
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Karma: Tool "Lateralus" Unofficial LP
Up for karma is Tool "Lateralus" on plain black vinyl. The only legit copy of this is a picture disc, this is unofficial according to Discogs or bootleg, whatever you want to call it. Fun fact: Best album ever written in the history of music.
1 - 100 and I'll draw whenever the posts stop
https://www.discogs.com/Tool-Lateralus/release/7579435
![rzLpKlX.jpg]()
![4Q3FAz3.jpg]()
![CESFOyw.jpg]()
![Gd1ALAs.jpg]()
1 - 100 and I'll draw whenever the posts stop
https://www.discogs.com/Tool-Lateralus/release/7579435
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Adorama does it again! LSiM 703's ,705,707,702 on sale again.
$650.00 for a pair. Below half price. Great seller. Peace. D![mtqli40da6qn.png]()
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time for more Joule Electra
Going to give this a try with the La300-me![a8box3dvmvvk.jpg]()
It could be a very nice match. It should be interesting anyway....
It could be a very nice match. It should be interesting anyway....
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Check out the new rig
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How do you audition and test new speakers and equipment?
Besides doing side by side comparisons, how do you test new speakers and equipment? What are some of your test recordings? What are some of your test criteria?
Here are some of my critical listening tests:
The mantra for people watching BD and DVDs often is, “I can’t hear the dialogue.” Classical music may be even worse than movie soundtrack dialogue. “Pianoforte” was the original name for the modern piano. It means: soft and loud. Classical Music is filled with both soft and loud passages. The music is very dynamic. For orchestral music, two of the worst offenders are the symphonies by Tchaikovsky and Anton Bruckner.
Bruckner is almost neurotic in the sudden, dynamic swings from piano to forte. Last summer I bought Polk Audio RTI A3s and I listened to Daniel Barenboim/Bruckner/Chicago Symphony and Georg Solti/Bruckner/Chicago Symphony. With the A3s, I could hear the quiet passages without turning up the volume. Then when the sudden loud passages sprang, the volume was not too high! The A3s are very detailed, but they are champs with piano forte.
Besides testing for piano forte, detail is also important. I listened to the three opus 59 “Razumovsky” string quartets by Beethoven. The string quartet consists of 2 violins, a viola and a cello. It is easy to distinguish the violins and viola (the “upper strings”) from the cello (part of the “lower strings”) but it is more difficult to distinguish the violin from the viola. With the A3s I found myself saying “that’s a viola!” numerous times. The viola was distinguishable from the violin.
The composer Rimsky-Korsakov’s Scheherazade is another great recording for testing new stereo equipment. It has everything in it. It has great dynamic swings, numerous instrumental solos, slower andante passages as well as fast temp allegros. (I like Fritz Reiner/Chicago Symphony, or Riccardo Muti). Some equipment and speakers may do well with solo instruments like the piano, but trip over themselves when the sound stage gets filled and busy with a large orchestra.
I also like to listen to familiar music to see if my new equipment reveals anything new from what is old to me. The Beatles Sgt Pepper, White Album, and Revolver have all kinds of different instruments (including the Sitar) and sounds going on in them. I also Test for male and female voices. I like Randy Travis’ “Full Circle” and “Always and Forever.” Vince Gil is also a good candidate for male vocals. For female vocals, lately I’ve been listening to Ann Hampton Callaway and Patty Loveless.
On Spotify, I recently discovered “The Chieftains.” They are an Irish folk band. If you want to test for sibilance and harsh treble sounds in your tweeters or amps, The Chieftains are the ticket. The music is not only overloaded with treble, it has very fast treble passages. Their recording are very well done.
So, how do you test new equipment?
Here are some of my critical listening tests:
The mantra for people watching BD and DVDs often is, “I can’t hear the dialogue.” Classical music may be even worse than movie soundtrack dialogue. “Pianoforte” was the original name for the modern piano. It means: soft and loud. Classical Music is filled with both soft and loud passages. The music is very dynamic. For orchestral music, two of the worst offenders are the symphonies by Tchaikovsky and Anton Bruckner.
Bruckner is almost neurotic in the sudden, dynamic swings from piano to forte. Last summer I bought Polk Audio RTI A3s and I listened to Daniel Barenboim/Bruckner/Chicago Symphony and Georg Solti/Bruckner/Chicago Symphony. With the A3s, I could hear the quiet passages without turning up the volume. Then when the sudden loud passages sprang, the volume was not too high! The A3s are very detailed, but they are champs with piano forte.
Besides testing for piano forte, detail is also important. I listened to the three opus 59 “Razumovsky” string quartets by Beethoven. The string quartet consists of 2 violins, a viola and a cello. It is easy to distinguish the violins and viola (the “upper strings”) from the cello (part of the “lower strings”) but it is more difficult to distinguish the violin from the viola. With the A3s I found myself saying “that’s a viola!” numerous times. The viola was distinguishable from the violin.
The composer Rimsky-Korsakov’s Scheherazade is another great recording for testing new stereo equipment. It has everything in it. It has great dynamic swings, numerous instrumental solos, slower andante passages as well as fast temp allegros. (I like Fritz Reiner/Chicago Symphony, or Riccardo Muti). Some equipment and speakers may do well with solo instruments like the piano, but trip over themselves when the sound stage gets filled and busy with a large orchestra.
I also like to listen to familiar music to see if my new equipment reveals anything new from what is old to me. The Beatles Sgt Pepper, White Album, and Revolver have all kinds of different instruments (including the Sitar) and sounds going on in them. I also Test for male and female voices. I like Randy Travis’ “Full Circle” and “Always and Forever.” Vince Gil is also a good candidate for male vocals. For female vocals, lately I’ve been listening to Ann Hampton Callaway and Patty Loveless.
On Spotify, I recently discovered “The Chieftains.” They are an Irish folk band. If you want to test for sibilance and harsh treble sounds in your tweeters or amps, The Chieftains are the ticket. The music is not only overloaded with treble, it has very fast treble passages. Their recording are very well done.
So, how do you test new equipment?
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SENCORE TC28 "THE HYBRIDER" Vacuum TUBE TRANSISTOR TESTER
For sale is a used and working SENCORE TC28 "THE HYBRIDER" Vacuum TUBE TRANSISTOR TESTER I tested a few tubes on this to be sure it worked and it seems to work fine, I did not test any transistors but no reason to assume that it does not work for them too.
I have enough tube testers as it is and this one just sits around collecting dust and taking up space it would make a great tester for someone that needs to check out a few tubes every so often and it appears to test most commonly used types and is very simple to use.
$125.00 + shipping
It is a heavy little beast so likely shipping will be a fair amount.
![h7y8txfuqjll.jpg]()
![ahohp3dy6jcg.jpg]()
![fsuekype1qvi.jpg]()
![nrktftodrbz8.jpg]()
![h9rgihpnkbh7.jpg]()
![prffozpzvwq7.jpg]()
Regards Snow
I have enough tube testers as it is and this one just sits around collecting dust and taking up space it would make a great tester for someone that needs to check out a few tubes every so often and it appears to test most commonly used types and is very simple to use.
$125.00 + shipping
It is a heavy little beast so likely shipping will be a fair amount.
Regards Snow
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B&K preamp question
I would like to hear from those that may have experiences with the b&k PT 3 and PT 5 tuner preamps. I know the PT 5 has balanced inputs which i do not care about but it also sold for $250 to $300 more then the PT 3 when new yet they appear to be the same thing except for the balanced inputs. Iis there a sonic difference between these two? Are the insides different parts wise? Thanks
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Anybody into BBQ/Smoking?
Such a beautiful day here in Maryland, so I got a 10 pound brisket in my smoker right now. 8 hours in and only at 167 degrees! Lots of time left to go. Anybody else got a smoker?
Zach
Zach
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Time For an Upgrade/Something New
With the 1.2's gone, a new pair of speakers has entered the fray. Behold and excuse the mess. Don't forget to let the jealousy rage through your veins.
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Confused as usual
Like many of us, I have acquired several sets of Polks over the years.
One of my finds was a set of SDA SRS 2.3TL's. Seemed in fine shape and bought a pair of 2b's along with them. They sat in storage for several years and recently were brought home to the ranch here in Fairbanks by means of a road trip from Portland OR via the ALCAN.
They made the trip just fine. I had also bought a Dreadnaught from another member which had also sat in storage and it was brought home as well.
After a while I moved the 1C's out and slid the 2.3's into place. I went to plug the interconnect cable from the 1c's in and that is when I realized that they (2.3) had come with a blade/blade cable while the 1C's had a pin blade. Oh well, I thought and swapped them out. Ignorance being bliss in so many things in life.
Have enjoyed them immensely the last couple of months and with the recent sales and interest of the Dreadnaught cases by Toolfan, figured now was the time to slip the Dreadnaught into the system.
Whipped out the 'The SDA Handbook' prepared by DarqueKnight and started reading the instructions. Soon realized that it was talking about cutting up your pin/blade cable to inject the Dreadnaught.
Hmmmm..... I have a B/B interconnect, that doesn't sound right.
Flipped back a few pages to read the characteristics of 2.3 versus 2.3TL's. Both come with a P/B interconnect and I have a B/B. Isn't that odd I thought?
Read the description of how the midrange drivers are mirrored from 2.3 to 2.3TL's. Pulled off the covers and confirmed that mine are arranged like 2.3TL's, meaning 4 drivers on the inside edge of the speaker. Hmmmmmm.....
Turned them around, see that the serial numbers are 'SRS 2.3TL R 4217, L 4229". Hmmmmmmm....
Read that all drivers should be MW6510s. Stand up pull drivers from both speakers and find that they are MW 6510's with a 1989 date on them. Hmmmmmm.
Tweeters are supposed to be SL3000's. Visually confirm this. Hmmmm....
So apparently I have a set of 2.3Tl's with a B/B interconnect cable.
I am all ears on this one if anyone has any ideas as to what I have here.
Nathan
![miywt438o9xw.jpg]()
![wlu523tpaykc.jpg]()
![o4o1djp50l16.jpg]()
![h0k68as193p3.jpg]()
One of my finds was a set of SDA SRS 2.3TL's. Seemed in fine shape and bought a pair of 2b's along with them. They sat in storage for several years and recently were brought home to the ranch here in Fairbanks by means of a road trip from Portland OR via the ALCAN.
They made the trip just fine. I had also bought a Dreadnaught from another member which had also sat in storage and it was brought home as well.
After a while I moved the 1C's out and slid the 2.3's into place. I went to plug the interconnect cable from the 1c's in and that is when I realized that they (2.3) had come with a blade/blade cable while the 1C's had a pin blade. Oh well, I thought and swapped them out. Ignorance being bliss in so many things in life.
Have enjoyed them immensely the last couple of months and with the recent sales and interest of the Dreadnaught cases by Toolfan, figured now was the time to slip the Dreadnaught into the system.
Whipped out the 'The SDA Handbook' prepared by DarqueKnight and started reading the instructions. Soon realized that it was talking about cutting up your pin/blade cable to inject the Dreadnaught.
Hmmmm..... I have a B/B interconnect, that doesn't sound right.
Flipped back a few pages to read the characteristics of 2.3 versus 2.3TL's. Both come with a P/B interconnect and I have a B/B. Isn't that odd I thought?
Read the description of how the midrange drivers are mirrored from 2.3 to 2.3TL's. Pulled off the covers and confirmed that mine are arranged like 2.3TL's, meaning 4 drivers on the inside edge of the speaker. Hmmmmmm.....
Turned them around, see that the serial numbers are 'SRS 2.3TL R 4217, L 4229". Hmmmmmmm....
Read that all drivers should be MW6510s. Stand up pull drivers from both speakers and find that they are MW 6510's with a 1989 date on them. Hmmmmmm.
Tweeters are supposed to be SL3000's. Visually confirm this. Hmmmm....
So apparently I have a set of 2.3Tl's with a B/B interconnect cable.
I am all ears on this one if anyone has any ideas as to what I have here.
Nathan
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I'm in my mid 30's with a bad credit score that I'm trying to improve.
I'm in my mid 30's with a bad credit score that I'm trying to improve. Is there any credit card I could get approved for to help me with that?
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