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DSB1, DSB2, DSB3

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Got from Dish, Soundbar DSB1, Base DSB2, Rear DSB3.
When I follow the instructions I can get the base to connect. Then when I get the rear DSB3 to connect, the base disconnects. I have not been successful getting both DSB2 and DSB3 to connect with the soundbar together. These connect either one or the other but not both. I'm very detailed to follow instructions in the manuals that came with all 3 items. I even tried some of my own ideas to get bluetooth to connect to both but no success. Am I missing something?
thanks, Ron

20amp power cable

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I have been looking for a 3M 20 Amp Power cable for my Furman PFi20. I had planned on a HC Venom but the 1.75 Length killed that.
The 3M length and 20amp plug has limited me to AQ and Wireworld it looks like.
I have been looking at possibly a Aurora7.
Do you guys think that would be a good choice for a Power Conditioner given its HC demands?

The other cable I have looked at is the AQ Thunder but at $1K its not a fun choice.

Thanks

Satellite Recommends for Monitor Fronts?

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In my dedicated basement HT (smallish room...12'x20' w/7' ceilings), I have a shoestring budget setup: CS1 center, Monitor 30 L&Fs, and two PSW10s for my front soundstage in a 7.1 setup. Looking for four smallish Polk surrounds to compliment my fronts (timbre-matched, if possible), but alas, Polk never released any dedicated surrounds for their revamped Monitor series. Thought about four additional Monitor 30s for rears, but they'd be much too big for the room. Any thoughts on which of Polk's HTIB lines might work well with Monitor fronts? RM3300s? RM6750s? Not looking to break the bank here. Don't need a powered sub or additional center, and all of Polk's current lines of dedicated surrounds are newer, pricier, and higher-end than my current Monitors. Just looking for four decent and compact(ish) surrounds that I can ceiling-mount in a room that doesn't require monster speakers. Thoughts?

Forum issues/gripes/suggestions/whatever

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I know this place has gone through a few remodels, a few knock-downs, but I find the current forum template/whatever to be a little lacking.

I haven't been active for a while, but there are a few things I've run across and am just curious about whether these can be added/modified:

1. Where are people at? It used to be that users could set their location information so people knew where they were from (if they wanted people to know). Looking at items for sale or in WTB is kind of ridiculous because you have no idea whether people are even in the same country as you are.....

2. Date/Time of posts - Can we not see both? From what I can tell it's an either/or, but I can't tell when it changes from time to date. I've seen posts made on threads the same day as others below but some show time and some show date. It's helpful to see if you've just missed someone (they may be active on the forum at the moment or not, but you can at least see when they last posted in the thread without having to go to the main page, look for their icon, then click on them to see when they were last active.....

Anyways, just curious as to the why's (if this is allowed o be asked).

Signa S2 soundbar AUX light won't turn off.

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Can't get the AUX function to switch off, the light constantly stays on and now the sound bar is not receiving audio from the TV.

Amplifier static click/pop through speaker when turning on & off

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Calling all electronics engineers and amplifier experts!

What would cause an amplifier that was previously silent when turning on & off, to randomly start making a static click/pop through the speaker when turning it on and off?

I realize different amplifiers tend to make various sounds upon powering up and down, but I'm specifically curious about what would cause this behavior to suddenly start happening out of the blue.

It's not an outrageously loud static click/pop sound, so I don't think it'll damage anything, but this just started happening to me so I'm curious. By the way these are monoblocks, and the other one is still silent, no static click/pops upon power up or down.

Elac Adante AF-61 (took some diy to make perfect)

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So let me preface this by saying that I am very happy with these speakers (now) and for the price I got them new I have nothing to complain about BUT:
When I got them home, I unboxed them which took quite a bit of work. They were double boxed and styrofoam packed along with velvet bags to protect the finish. Nicely packed.
The bases were separated from the boxes and had to be screwed on. The finish and overall look of these towers is absolutely amazing.
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So I was listening to them last night and they sounded fabulous. I started reading more about an issue I had read before I purchased them and went ahead and tested for the problem:
Apparently either in production or in shipping, a small leak developed between chambers. Meaning that the supposed sealed driver/passive radiator boxes which should be sealed from each other were actually letting a little air between them. Only two of these bass drivers next to each other were leaking to the point when you pushed on one of the passive radiators, the one above it would move. Not ideal. To make things worse, I had read about a larger issue. In some cases the sir could leak between the top bass driver and the mid/tweet enclosure. This was harder to test for. I saw a video of one fella who had the issue test with a lighter in front of the mid and pushed on the passive radiator below to see if the flame moved. Which it did on both of my towers.
Now keep in mind I had already played them and thought they sounded leaps above the lsim’s.
I had three options in my mind, 1st was to do what most sane individuals who spent this much on speakers would do, pack them all back up and take them back to the dealer. 2nd was to deal with it which is not something I think any of us would do. And 3rd is quite possibly the option that no one else in their right mind would consider- fix it!
I slept on this decision as I knew if I did this, most likely returning them would be out of the cards. I weighed some options:
I love the sound already
I got them for a fantastic price
I don’t think that (besides this thread) they could deny me a warranty claim for any replacement drivers down the road should they be needed as I purchased them from an authorized Elac dealer.
All of these gave me the confidence to fix this issue.
So I knew that if I was doing this, I would do it very very carefully and trace all steps to ale sure all went back EXACTLY as it was.
First step was to remove the aluminum plate from the front and expose the driver screws. Then remove the mid/tweet and the three passive radiators.
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Then remove the three internal 6.5” woofers.
I did this to both towers and prepped the area for working with the latex quick dry caulk I had purchased for $8 (two tubes)
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I then proceeded to sleal all corners I could reach. Every gap and seal between chambers.
This took about 1 hour to do.
One of the problem areas was the plate they used to seal the wires for the mid/tweet. It only had a foam gasket around it and was an obvious weak point.
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I sealed it with the same caulk.
I did notice that all components inside were fantastic quality (enclosure QC not withstanding)
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Taking my time to put all back after the caulk dried.
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When I got done all was exactly as it looked before I started.
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Is when I tested the lighter, nothing. And pushing on the passive radiators is like pushing on the SVS SB16 , moves very slowly in and out. Just as they should.
Now most of you are going to say that you would never put up with that, and your right. I don’t argue that point. I just know that now (after 2 1/2 hours of work and $8 ) they are EXACTLY how they should be. Sound even better (I would hope) than before.
I am very happy with these towers and I’m not sure anyone else might even notice the issue when they purchased these if it wasn’t for a* retentive folks out there.
Great towers and phenomenal imaging and mids. Leaps and bounds above the polks.
Just disappointed that the QC (or shipping, but less likely) is sub par for this level or speaker.
I am still breaking them in and am listening to DSOTM on Sacd now. Time and money wow. Like I have never heard them.
Thanks for reading
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Onkyo AVR and Audiosource Amp

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Onkyo TX-SR 705
130 x 7, beast of an AVR weighing in at 50 lbs. Very nice sounding high current amps that can run pretty warm. Will include a usb/ac powered axial fan. Easily 8/10 condition that includes original box, remote, power cord, set up mic and manual.
$225.00 shipped in CONUS.

Audiosource Amp Four
150 x 2 amplifier that sounds pretty darn good for the money. Very versitile amp that can be bridged to 450w. Other features include, auto on/off, A/B selector, front L/R volume control, torodial trans, detachable pwr cord. Also has cool meters on the front (lights do not work). These are hard to find and are a great way to power larger front L/R speakers in an HT system, taking the strain off the AVR. Dont have original box, but will be packed well and comes with power cord and manual.
$175.00 shipped in CONUS.

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Am selling my Used OPPO UDP-205 4k Blu-Ray player

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Am selling my Used OPPO UDP-205 4k Blu-Ray player

No scratches anywhere with Minimal use, comes with all original accessories and box.

What's in the Box:

Owner's manual

Blu-ray player

63" AC power cord

Remote control

2 "AA" batteries

69" HDMI cable

Power Supply: 110V – 120V ˜ / 220V – 240V ˜, 50/60Hz

Power Consumption: 65W (Standby: 0.5W in Energy Efficient Mode)

Dimensions: 16.8 x 12.2 x 4.8 inches (430mm x 311mm x 123mm)

Mass: 22lbs (10kg)

Operating Temperature 41°F - 95°F, 5°C - 35°C

Operating Humidity 15% - 75%, no condensation

Certified Premium High Speed 6 Ft HDMI Cable

Remote Control with Size AA Batteries

Shipping Information Shipping Weight: 30 lbs

Text me or call on + 1 (917) 633-7290

Email: paullarry86@yahoo.com

Looking for Misc Audio Deals of the Day? Updated info here!

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Monitor 7B no bass

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Hi - I just inherited a pair of Monitor 7B's. Hooked them up and there is no bass coming from either speaker. There is sound coming from the woofers but no bass, you can't make out the bass guitar. The bottom passive speaker doesn't seem to be doing anything at all.
Any info appreciated- thank you!

No disc

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My Oppo bdp 83 played music cd fine last night. This Morning it reads no disc. Any ideas other then a repair shop?

Okey-dokey, (finally) the ELAC "DEBUT 2.0 B6.2" loudspeakers are, umm, speaking

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I hope ELAC didn't pay someone to come up with the model name for these little loudspeakers.

Finally, I have managed to get upstairs and hook up my Christmas present to myself, half-price ELAC "Debut 2.0 B6.2" loudspeakers and, at the least, get them breaking in.


What the heck did you decide to use for an amplifier, Marky? I hear you ask. :)

Well, since I am lazy but recognize that these need some power for best results, I went with this.

14035850202_6bc0d2cca5_h.jpgDSC_9173 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr

(stock photo of the amp from a while back -- although I am using 16 gauge zip cord, at least for the moment :p )

Something like 70 wpc, twin power supplies with toroidal PTs. It's also utterly unrestored (a $40 pickup at NEARC some years back). No idea how happy or otherwise these ol' hk amps are with a (nominal) '6 ohm' load, but I gotta start somewhere! This was the easiest, sort of powerful soiled solid state amp to get off of a shelf and press into service!

Further details as events warrant.

Note, I remain (in all seriousness) wide open to suggestions of a more appropriate amplifier (or - gasp! - receiver) to use to power these... pickins' are sorta slim here in terms of high-power amps, though, you know?

WTB: Polk Audio TL3 pair in black

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Like the title says, looking for a pair of black TL3s.

Kenwood VR-4080 External IR Transmitter / Reciver

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I am looking for a Kenwood “IR-9991” IR Reciver.
The Kenwood A/V Reciver, VR-4080 uses a remote that is a combination of RF and IR.
The IR-9991 will allow the system to be controlled with IR only, allowing the use of modern “unifying remotes”.

Anyone have one for sale or know of a substitute?

Lots of gear for sale

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I've taken in a ton of gear recently on trade and I need to find a new home for it. Instead of flooding the market I'm going to treat this as an interest thread and list them all here. If you are interested in anything, PM me and I might be able to do Polkie pricing on some of these items.

Audible Illusions Modulus 2B - $700
Audio Mirror 20 watt parallel SET monos - $900
B&K Reference 200.7 - $1000
Dayens Ampino Monoblocks - $1200
Emerald Physics CS-2.8 - $4500
Grand Prix Audio Carbon Fiber Monoblock Stands - $2,000 pair
MastersounD Dueventi (VERY lightly preowned) - $3,000
McIntosh C32 - $1100
McIntosh MX134 - $1000
McIntosh MC2125 - $1100
McIntosh MC2500 - $3000
Norma Audio SC-2B and 8.7MR monos - $9000
Parasound Halo Integrated, Black - $1,500
PS Audio GCPH - $450
Shunyata Hydra 8 - $1000
Thorens TD309 - $1100 needs new belt
Triode Corporation TRV-88SER - $1500
Usher R1.5 - $1300
Usher T-515 - $350
VTL TL-5.5 - $2,000
Wadia a315 - $1500

FR1 Soundbar Wont Power On

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I literally have had this sound bar for 3 months and was a salesman for it with my former company, Dish Network, and now it won't power on at all. It just quit working. I've tested the power cord and it works fine, but the actual soundbar will not power on. Every answer on this form is "Contact Customer Service". No Troubleshooting is included with the manual and it is Christmas Eve. Customer Service won't be open until Tuesday. Help. Has anyone else had this issue and been able to resolve it?

MG Audio Design Planus Cu2 interconnects

Analysis Plus Chocolate Oval-In interconnects

Tilting towers to get tweeter ear level

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Anyone have a solid process for this? I'm toying with raising and lowering the back feet on my 705's. I feel like there is a bit of change to the quality of sound. I'm still in the first few hundred hours but occasionally feel like some things sound a bit harsh on the high end. I've not applied any acoustic treatments to the room yet which might help as well. Thanks!

According to Robert Harley in his book, The Complete Guide to High End Audio:

"Typically, the loudspeaker will be brightest (i.e. have the most treble) when your ears are at the same height as the tweeters or on the tweeter axis. Most tweeters are positioned between 32" and 40" from the floor to coincide with typical listening heights........The degree to which the sound changes with height varies greatly with the loudspeaker. Some models have a broad range over which little change is audible; others can exhibit large tonal changes when you merely straighten your back when listening...."
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