Looking at a used but looks to be old ps audio power director. 400$ worth it? ![u9pj3gf403zq.png]()
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Need quick advice!
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MW-5800 speaker
Would like to purchase one of these. Need to know who has it and how do I go about ordering it. This sight shows one available at $25.00. Thank You.
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Shipping Prices
WTH is up with shipping prices lately?? I'm looking at shipping prices to potentially ship some speakers I have for sale. For a 16"x16"x12" box at 20 lbs insured for $125, its coming in at nearly $55 for the CHEAPEST option! If I box two speakers in one box, its around $100 for ground shipping. I know I've shipped similar items in the not-so-distant past for about 1/3 these rates.
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What next for my SDA 2a's
First off, thanks to all of the folks on here who have been sharing their knowledge and experience. I have been a member of this board for quite a while but haven't posted much. Primarily because there is so much excellent info already here, I just search and usually find the answer to my question. As it is, I have far more questions than I have answers.
That being said, I am at somewhat of a crossroads with the SDA 2a's.
A little back ground. I have re-capped the crossovers with Sonicap on the tweeter, Solen on the 20uf and Mundorf NP electrolytics for the dual 130uf caps on the SDA board. I have replaced the SDA inductor with an Erse. Mills resistors. RDO-194 tweeters. Black Hole 5 behind the mid/bass drivers. Damping on the speaker and PR baskets. Speakon/10ga SDA cable. Spikes. I have the hurricane nuts but haven't put them in yet, I planned to veneer the cabinets and was going to install them then.
I am driving the speakers with an Odyssey Khartago amp. It is a high current 110 wpc into 8 ohms. Will go down to 2 ohms no problem. Speaker cables are DIY using Cat 5 cable and Audioquest bananas. My preamp is a Balanced Audio Technology VK-3i and phono stage is a VK-P5 upgraded to a VK-10 output and 6 pak plus. Table is a restored Thorens TD-160 with an SME M2-9 arm, Audio Technica OC9 ML II cart into a K&K SUT. Cables are Audioquest and Neotech. Standard power cords to each unit.
My listening room is 10 x 13 and the speakers are on the long wall. The speakers are spaced about 6 feet apart with 3 feet to the side walls. I have Acoustimac bass traps in the corners. The 2a's are probably the largest SDA I could use in this room.
I get a very good SDA effect as far as the imaging goes. The speakers disappear and the image is spread across the entire room. It was a little out of focus on the edges but a new 10 ga SDA cable seems to have taken care of that. The problem I am having is the midrange, especially noticable with piano's. There is a glare at about 800 to 1k hz. It muddies up the piano in selections where piano is dominant. Vocals are fine. Clear and centered. I have a pair of Yamaha NS-1000m's also. I put them in just to get a comparison. Mids are clear with no glare, but a much narrower sound stage. I had thought it might just be a room acoustics problem but I am not sure.
The only thing that I haven't done as far as mods is the binding posts and hurricane nuts. The cabinets seem to be sealed well though as I have plenty of low end. I am sure binding posts would help but I am not sure they would solve this particular problem.
For those who have been down this path, is this something that you have encountered? I absolutely love the SDA's but the midrange mud is driving me nuts. I know my room arrangement is not optimum but it is what I have to work with. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tim
That being said, I am at somewhat of a crossroads with the SDA 2a's.
A little back ground. I have re-capped the crossovers with Sonicap on the tweeter, Solen on the 20uf and Mundorf NP electrolytics for the dual 130uf caps on the SDA board. I have replaced the SDA inductor with an Erse. Mills resistors. RDO-194 tweeters. Black Hole 5 behind the mid/bass drivers. Damping on the speaker and PR baskets. Speakon/10ga SDA cable. Spikes. I have the hurricane nuts but haven't put them in yet, I planned to veneer the cabinets and was going to install them then.
I am driving the speakers with an Odyssey Khartago amp. It is a high current 110 wpc into 8 ohms. Will go down to 2 ohms no problem. Speaker cables are DIY using Cat 5 cable and Audioquest bananas. My preamp is a Balanced Audio Technology VK-3i and phono stage is a VK-P5 upgraded to a VK-10 output and 6 pak plus. Table is a restored Thorens TD-160 with an SME M2-9 arm, Audio Technica OC9 ML II cart into a K&K SUT. Cables are Audioquest and Neotech. Standard power cords to each unit.
My listening room is 10 x 13 and the speakers are on the long wall. The speakers are spaced about 6 feet apart with 3 feet to the side walls. I have Acoustimac bass traps in the corners. The 2a's are probably the largest SDA I could use in this room.
I get a very good SDA effect as far as the imaging goes. The speakers disappear and the image is spread across the entire room. It was a little out of focus on the edges but a new 10 ga SDA cable seems to have taken care of that. The problem I am having is the midrange, especially noticable with piano's. There is a glare at about 800 to 1k hz. It muddies up the piano in selections where piano is dominant. Vocals are fine. Clear and centered. I have a pair of Yamaha NS-1000m's also. I put them in just to get a comparison. Mids are clear with no glare, but a much narrower sound stage. I had thought it might just be a room acoustics problem but I am not sure.
The only thing that I haven't done as far as mods is the binding posts and hurricane nuts. The cabinets seem to be sealed well though as I have plenty of low end. I am sure binding posts would help but I am not sure they would solve this particular problem.
For those who have been down this path, is this something that you have encountered? I absolutely love the SDA's but the midrange mud is driving me nuts. I know my room arrangement is not optimum but it is what I have to work with. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tim
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A Crying Shame
Won these pretty Monitor 4's with Peerless tweets on eBay. They arrived in a flimsy box with some packing peanuts thrown in. You could see one of the cabinets was damaged through a torn corner of the box. I refused it.
Why ??????
![2bozjsr4hp9x.jpg]()
Why ??????
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Polk warranty claim through email?
HI,
I'm just wondering why Polk doesn't reply to warranty claims through email?
I sent an email last weekend and have been patiently waiting to hear back from any polk representative.
all I've received so far is the automated reply...
"Thank you for reaching out to Polk Audio support. Your case has been created in our system and we will notify you as soon as it has been assigned to a customer service representative.
If you require immediate assistance, please call 1-800-377-7655 and provide your case number (below) and name to the service rep. You can also email us at polkcs@polkaudio.com to submit another case."
Its a simple claim that should be able to be done through email no problem.
The issue is that my psw111 just got the dreaded heartbeat issue... which is a fairly common issue thats been plaguing polk subs for years
my amp is still under warranty for 2 months, all I need is a replacement amp shipped to me and some information on whether or not their is any Ontario or Canadian Polk service centers and where/how to ship my dead amp back to Polk.
Why can't that be solved through email?
I just can't understand why a company the size of Polk wouldn't offer help through email. and there calling service is only opened till 530 ET... that makes no sense to me, when most stores are still opened till at least 6 even on weekends. Polks service center should be opened much later then 530 especially during weekdays. People work all kinds of hours and limiting the ways of contacting Polk makes warranty claims much more inconvenient for some people.
why does Polks warranty claims have to be done over the phone? when countless other companies honor warranty claims through email all the time. To me polk only offering warranty help through their call in hotline is terrible service and is a sign of being stuck in the past. This is the 21st century where emailing can be much more content to some people for countless reasons.
Polk needs to get with the times and/or step up their game on responding to emails. Theirs no reason it should take over a week to assign a representative to my vary simple claims case.
I'm just wondering why Polk doesn't reply to warranty claims through email?
I sent an email last weekend and have been patiently waiting to hear back from any polk representative.
all I've received so far is the automated reply...
"Thank you for reaching out to Polk Audio support. Your case has been created in our system and we will notify you as soon as it has been assigned to a customer service representative.
If you require immediate assistance, please call 1-800-377-7655 and provide your case number (below) and name to the service rep. You can also email us at polkcs@polkaudio.com to submit another case."
Its a simple claim that should be able to be done through email no problem.
The issue is that my psw111 just got the dreaded heartbeat issue... which is a fairly common issue thats been plaguing polk subs for years
my amp is still under warranty for 2 months, all I need is a replacement amp shipped to me and some information on whether or not their is any Ontario or Canadian Polk service centers and where/how to ship my dead amp back to Polk.
Why can't that be solved through email?
I just can't understand why a company the size of Polk wouldn't offer help through email. and there calling service is only opened till 530 ET... that makes no sense to me, when most stores are still opened till at least 6 even on weekends. Polks service center should be opened much later then 530 especially during weekdays. People work all kinds of hours and limiting the ways of contacting Polk makes warranty claims much more inconvenient for some people.
why does Polks warranty claims have to be done over the phone? when countless other companies honor warranty claims through email all the time. To me polk only offering warranty help through their call in hotline is terrible service and is a sign of being stuck in the past. This is the 21st century where emailing can be much more content to some people for countless reasons.
Polk needs to get with the times and/or step up their game on responding to emails. Theirs no reason it should take over a week to assign a representative to my vary simple claims case.
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Please tell me if this is not normal!
Second pairing RD0 tweeters and same issue again. I'll include a link to a YouTube video, when you listen to the RD0 you can hear a faint buzzing at the end of the piano chords. It is hard to hear I'm the video but I can still point it out.
let me know if this is what you have experienced or not.
![image]()
let me know if this is what you have experienced or not.
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Smaller speakers in 2.0, 2.0 modified, or 2.1?
This question has been bugging me some. The purist is straight 2Ch (2.0). Cables and such are important. With smaller speakers even at lower volume the bass can be lacking, and some of the full sound is missed. Anything effecting the audio signal tone controls, loudness button, etc. (2.0 modified), are frowned upon as effecting the signal, likely adding noise or other undesirables. Subs (2.1) fill the gap, and are common even among audiophiles. But if you are running your system through a crossover with a variety of adjustments, isn't that very similar to the extra electronics of a tone control? Why not use a parametric tone control or adjustable bass booster instead ? The small speakers may still not go as deep as a sub, but will take on the sound of a much larger full range speaker at lower volumes.
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PSW111 with 2.1
I saw a similar question posted, but the thread doesn't answer my question. I have a small stereo amplifier (SMSL Q5 Pro) which has a mono subwoofer out, which I understand is just a merging of L+R with no crossover control. How would I connect this to a PSW111 subwoofer? Would I have to use a Y splitter from the amp to feed into the L+R RCA inputs on the subwoofer? Will I be able to control the subwoofer crossover and gain using this method. (This method is not covered in the user manual). I don't really want route my speakers via the sub.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Tube help
There seems to be an issue I've never encountered before with a European ECC82. The tube heater flashes upon start-up like many Euro tubes I own, so that's pretty normal.
But instead of flashing and dissipating , the (heater ?) wire continues to glow red and the tube envelope gets much hotter than it normally does in the area that is glowing. The sound output from the tube is very weak. I tried it in both the left and right position in my pre-amp and get the same result.
Obviously there is an issue but maybe someone can explain what's going one?
Thanks
H9
But instead of flashing and dissipating , the (heater ?) wire continues to glow red and the tube envelope gets much hotter than it normally does in the area that is glowing. The sound output from the tube is very weak. I tried it in both the left and right position in my pre-amp and get the same result.
Obviously there is an issue but maybe someone can explain what's going one?
Thanks
H9
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Ceiling treatment - clouds. What a pain.
So I was finally able to complete my clouds installation. It was a PITA.
This installation was fraught with issues.
1. What kind of installation hardware would I need? The manufacturer does not have any clouds install kit that looks remotely good.
2. I have a slight incline to my ceiling, which means I need to be able to modulate the drop from the front vs the rear of the clouds to allow for a flat dropped ceiling look.
3. I checked for studs, to see if I can center than panels to be suspended by studs, lo-behold, my media room's studs are off center and are of no help.
4. Then I realized I needed to install it to the drywall. The panels are approximately 10 lbs a piece... so if I was hanging 6+, that's 60 lbs on the ceiling. I needed good strong drywall anchors on a nearly vertical pull.
So I figured, the best way to do this was to use toggle bolts as they have the strongest drywall anchoring capabilities, I watched numerous youtube videos comparing this to other anchors.
Then I had to find hooks that would somehow install into the toggle bolts, which was not particularly easy to do at my local LOWES as no one there was any help.... luckily I found the right combo.
Then I decided that apparently I'd have to drill a 5/8" hole into the wall, well that would look really ugly and messy with the hooks dangling through, so I bought some washers to clean the look.
Preplanning took me nearly 4 months as little details were annoying, such as finding the right hardware, and even when I found the correct hardware, I would deplete the entire stash at Lowes each time I went and would have to come back the week after for the remaining stash, I did this 3x.
OK, so we figured out how to hang the clouds.... the next issue was - how to determine where to hang them?
This installation was fraught with issues.
1. What kind of installation hardware would I need? The manufacturer does not have any clouds install kit that looks remotely good.
2. I have a slight incline to my ceiling, which means I need to be able to modulate the drop from the front vs the rear of the clouds to allow for a flat dropped ceiling look.
3. I checked for studs, to see if I can center than panels to be suspended by studs, lo-behold, my media room's studs are off center and are of no help.
4. Then I realized I needed to install it to the drywall. The panels are approximately 10 lbs a piece... so if I was hanging 6+, that's 60 lbs on the ceiling. I needed good strong drywall anchors on a nearly vertical pull.
So I figured, the best way to do this was to use toggle bolts as they have the strongest drywall anchoring capabilities, I watched numerous youtube videos comparing this to other anchors.
Then I had to find hooks that would somehow install into the toggle bolts, which was not particularly easy to do at my local LOWES as no one there was any help.... luckily I found the right combo.
Then I decided that apparently I'd have to drill a 5/8" hole into the wall, well that would look really ugly and messy with the hooks dangling through, so I bought some washers to clean the look.
Preplanning took me nearly 4 months as little details were annoying, such as finding the right hardware, and even when I found the correct hardware, I would deplete the entire stash at Lowes each time I went and would have to come back the week after for the remaining stash, I did this 3x.
OK, so we figured out how to hang the clouds.... the next issue was - how to determine where to hang them?
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BB has Sennheiser HD558 for $79.99 today only
My favorite cans for critical listening. Same drivers as 598 model. Can be modded to make them the same as 598 by removing a sticker inside. YouTube. No brainier price. Merry Christmas. D![bfmtj64ip5rg.png]()
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Hacksaw Ridge . Mel Gibson does it again!
I hope it wins best picture,best actor,best director tonight! Watched it last night. Wow. Peace. D
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Questions and WTB: CS350-ls
Sounds like this is the matching center for the LS 90's. Is that correct?
Would this beat out a CS2?
Anybody got one for sale by chance?
Would this beat out a CS2?
Anybody got one for sale by chance?
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Cambridge Audio Aero 6 Black Speaker Pair
These are mint, only used around 40 hours. 5 year warranty and I purchased these from Audio Advisor a few months ago. Only selling due to change of direction for my small 2-channel room.
Original boxes and all accessories, including high quality spikes.
I can post pictures if needed, but they are brand new and look like the attached photos,
$375 shipped. Peace.
![y94w1if6orb7.jpg]()
![y9g4rdhye8wr.jpg]()
![1tg3lnz2la77.jpg]()
Original boxes and all accessories, including high quality spikes.
I can post pictures if needed, but they are brand new and look like the attached photos,
$375 shipped. Peace.
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Polk Magnifi One
Just picked up a Polk Magnifi One along with a LG OLED TV. Got everything hooked up with the optical cable. Once I tried to pair it with the TV the Bluetooth was recongnized. It worked so I unplugged the optical. Watched for an hour or so and the connection was lost. Couldn't get it to reconnect so I hooked the optical back up. Finally got it to work again and shut the tv down. I lost the connection again. Getting a little frustrated trying to get and keep a connection and use my DIRECTV RC73 remote. Any help would be appreciated.
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New SDA SRS2 owner with a couple of questions
I guess an introduction to start:
I am a vintage audio collector like many here I suspect.
I found this forum searching for SDA SRS series speakers. Rex 81 had a pair for sale, but I was one day too late![:(]( ":(")
This forum seems to be active and helpful so it is a good find.
I was able to purchase my "second choice" pair local to me after auditioning them, but they are all original without the upgrades.
On the vintage equipment side - I have a few monster receivers from the late 70's, (Pioneer SX1050, SX1280, Sansui G901DB), A few turntables, A couple sets of vintage speakers, KEF 104/2, HPM 100's.
Anyway, enough of that I have a few starting questions as I prepare to start to enjoy my SDA SRS2 (blade - blade).
1. Has anyone connected a SX1280 or G901DB (same as G9000) to these? I have checked 3 sources and all tell me that they use a common ground. I figure that it can't hurt to ask the question in a forum with Polk fanatics. I also have a Luxman M383, but I am not positive yet if it is a common ground amp...
2. The wood on the top of one of the speaker enclosures is slightly loose. I want to know the best way to tighten this up. Go through the mid openings? If so, what surprises might doing this lead to?
3. They need a good cleaning and I will probably refinish them with Watco natural, but I will determine that later. What is a good safe way to clean the tweeter, if any?
I have restored my KEF 104/2 so I have some general experience with refinishing, and re-foam, but I do not plan to dive into this enclosure without some more research first.
I will post some pics a little later assuming I have the rights to post images.
Thanks
Bob
I am a vintage audio collector like many here I suspect.
I found this forum searching for SDA SRS series speakers. Rex 81 had a pair for sale, but I was one day too late
This forum seems to be active and helpful so it is a good find.I was able to purchase my "second choice" pair local to me after auditioning them, but they are all original without the upgrades.
On the vintage equipment side - I have a few monster receivers from the late 70's, (Pioneer SX1050, SX1280, Sansui G901DB), A few turntables, A couple sets of vintage speakers, KEF 104/2, HPM 100's.
Anyway, enough of that I have a few starting questions as I prepare to start to enjoy my SDA SRS2 (blade - blade).
1. Has anyone connected a SX1280 or G901DB (same as G9000) to these? I have checked 3 sources and all tell me that they use a common ground. I figure that it can't hurt to ask the question in a forum with Polk fanatics. I also have a Luxman M383, but I am not positive yet if it is a common ground amp...
2. The wood on the top of one of the speaker enclosures is slightly loose. I want to know the best way to tighten this up. Go through the mid openings? If so, what surprises might doing this lead to?
3. They need a good cleaning and I will probably refinish them with Watco natural, but I will determine that later. What is a good safe way to clean the tweeter, if any?
I have restored my KEF 104/2 so I have some general experience with refinishing, and re-foam, but I do not plan to dive into this enclosure without some more research first.
I will post some pics a little later assuming I have the rights to post images.
Thanks
Bob
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RIP Bill Paxton.
What a shock this morning. I can't even list all the thoughts and rolls running through my head.
Rest In Peace sir...
http://www.foxnews.com/entertainment/2017/02/26/actor-bill-paxton-dead-at-61.html
Rest In Peace sir...
http://www.foxnews.com/entertainment/2017/02/26/actor-bill-paxton-dead-at-61.html
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McIntosh C500T - Anyone?
Has anyone here auditioned the McIntosh C500T? I am putting this on my short list along with the Cary 05 and a Joule...
Hopefully I get to hear some McIntosh and Cary Audio at the upcoming Axpona show.
![fch1rc075xdf.bmp]()
Hopefully I get to hear some McIntosh and Cary Audio at the upcoming Axpona show.
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Cables For Sale
Hey guys,
Here is a list of cables I would like to sell. Take a look and if you want more then 1 item, I will give you a package deal. Add $8 for single cable , $10 for pairs and 412 for speaker cables for Shipping in the USA ONLY!
I have spoken to some of you already and here is the list. I can send pic's to anyone who needs to see what they look like. All my cables are in like new or very good condition.
Audioquest VDM1 2 meter coax digital cable $25
Audioquest GSNAKE analog audio 2 meter pair $25 per pair (have 2 pairs of these)
Audioquest GSNAKE analog audio single cable $10
Audioquest Sidewinder analog audio 2 meter pair $35
Audioquest Sidewinder analog audio 4 meter pair $45 per pair (have 2 pairs of these)
Audioquest OL-1 Digital OptiLink-1 Cable 2 meter $25 each ( I have 3 of them)
Audioquest HDMI-A 4.5 meters $30each ( I have 2)
Audioquest HDMI-X 4.5 meter $40 each ( I have 2)
Audioquest HDMI-X 2 meter $25
Audioquest Cinnamon HDMI Braided 2 meter $35
Audioquest Cinnamon HDMI 1.5 meter NON-BRAIDED $30
Audioquest Cinnamon HDMI 1 meter NON-BRAIDED $25
Audioquest Cinnamon HDMI .6 meter NON-BRAIDED $20
Audioquest Forest 1 meter $20
Audioquest Pearl 1 meter $15 each ( I have 2)
MIT EXP4 analog audio 2 meter cables $25 pair
Monster Cable M Series 550-I $25 pair ( I have 3)
Monster PowerLine 200 2 feet 5 inches angles power head $10
Cardis Quad Link 5-C 1 meter $60 per pair ( I have 2)
Cardis Cross Link 1-L Analog Interconnect $45 each ( I have 2)
Cardis Cross Link 1-S 8 ft pair terminated in banana banana $60
Cardis Cross Link 2-X 7 ft 6 inches speaker cables terminated in banana banana $50
Tributaries V1 Coax digital yellow 1 meter $15
Here is a list of cables I would like to sell. Take a look and if you want more then 1 item, I will give you a package deal. Add $8 for single cable , $10 for pairs and 412 for speaker cables for Shipping in the USA ONLY!
I have spoken to some of you already and here is the list. I can send pic's to anyone who needs to see what they look like. All my cables are in like new or very good condition.
Audioquest VDM1 2 meter coax digital cable $25
Audioquest GSNAKE analog audio 2 meter pair $25 per pair (have 2 pairs of these)
Audioquest GSNAKE analog audio single cable $10
Audioquest Sidewinder analog audio 2 meter pair $35
Audioquest Sidewinder analog audio 4 meter pair $45 per pair (have 2 pairs of these)
Audioquest OL-1 Digital OptiLink-1 Cable 2 meter $25 each ( I have 3 of them)
Audioquest HDMI-A 4.5 meters $30each ( I have 2)
Audioquest HDMI-X 4.5 meter $40 each ( I have 2)
Audioquest HDMI-X 2 meter $25
Audioquest Cinnamon HDMI Braided 2 meter $35
Audioquest Cinnamon HDMI 1.5 meter NON-BRAIDED $30
Audioquest Cinnamon HDMI 1 meter NON-BRAIDED $25
Audioquest Cinnamon HDMI .6 meter NON-BRAIDED $20
Audioquest Forest 1 meter $20
Audioquest Pearl 1 meter $15 each ( I have 2)
MIT EXP4 analog audio 2 meter cables $25 pair
Monster Cable M Series 550-I $25 pair ( I have 3)
Monster PowerLine 200 2 feet 5 inches angles power head $10
Cardis Quad Link 5-C 1 meter $60 per pair ( I have 2)
Cardis Cross Link 1-L Analog Interconnect $45 each ( I have 2)
Cardis Cross Link 1-S 8 ft pair terminated in banana banana $60
Cardis Cross Link 2-X 7 ft 6 inches speaker cables terminated in banana banana $50
Tributaries V1 Coax digital yellow 1 meter $15
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