Study long ,study wrong. Get them before they are extinct like the 707’s? Love mine. Peace D![97msing5x3b8.png]()
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Adorama has LSiM 705 with 704 for a grand again
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Bands you've dismissed for non-musical reasons...
As a life long music aficionado I'm really open to new music and it's rare I dismiss something without hearing it first... but i feel like... sometimes i don't need to hear it to know that i'm not going to like it...
for me... the best example of this is tool. i am of the age that when they came out i was their demographic... and i love all kinds of music related to and similar to tool but for whatever reason i was never curious... my lack of interest was compounded by a completely arbitrary impression and mental image of the average tool fan... for some reason i found the scene surrounding the band to be off-putting...
fast forward to a few years ago when Maynard James Keenan was on Marc Maron's WTF podcast. going into i knew nothing about the dude or his band other than my above mentioned preconceived notions... well come to find out... that like me... tool are huge fans of King Crimson and Bill Hicks. there was a lot more I found fascinating and compelling about the interview but the Hicks and Crimson connection was a big deal for me.
So i went all in on the tool discography... and what do you know? now I'm a big fan... it's great music... and i feel like i needlessly missed out all those years... i'm still not convinced that my impression of their fans is wrong... so i don't feel bad about having not seen them live... but as far as the band and their sound goes... i'm here for that stuff...
what about you? are there any bands or artists that you dismissed for whatever reason only to find out later that you were mistaken and now you're a fan?
I have a similar story about how i became to be a deadhead but i won't bore you with the details...
for me... the best example of this is tool. i am of the age that when they came out i was their demographic... and i love all kinds of music related to and similar to tool but for whatever reason i was never curious... my lack of interest was compounded by a completely arbitrary impression and mental image of the average tool fan... for some reason i found the scene surrounding the band to be off-putting...
fast forward to a few years ago when Maynard James Keenan was on Marc Maron's WTF podcast. going into i knew nothing about the dude or his band other than my above mentioned preconceived notions... well come to find out... that like me... tool are huge fans of King Crimson and Bill Hicks. there was a lot more I found fascinating and compelling about the interview but the Hicks and Crimson connection was a big deal for me.
So i went all in on the tool discography... and what do you know? now I'm a big fan... it's great music... and i feel like i needlessly missed out all those years... i'm still not convinced that my impression of their fans is wrong... so i don't feel bad about having not seen them live... but as far as the band and their sound goes... i'm here for that stuff...
what about you? are there any bands or artists that you dismissed for whatever reason only to find out later that you were mistaken and now you're a fan?
I have a similar story about how i became to be a deadhead but i won't bore you with the details...
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↧
The Tale Of 5 Tweeters - SDA Tweeter Replacement Guide
Introduction
This article is aimed at those who want to be sure that they are choosing replacement and upgrade tweeters according to Polk's specifications and recommendations. Of course, owners are free to make whatever tweeter and driver replacements/substitutions they wish with their speakers. Some owners my subjectively believe that a non-standard tweeter replacement sounds better.
The five tweeters used in the SDA series are: the SL1000, the SL2000, the SL3000, the RD0194, and the RD0198.
The RD0194 silk dome tweeter is the appropriate replacement for the SL1000 and SL2000. The RD0194 is a drop in replacement for the SL2000, but not for the SL1000 since they are different sizes and have different footprints. Fitting an RD0194 into a cabinet made for the SL1000 will require some cabinet modification.
The RD0198 silk dome tweeter is the appropriate drop in replacement for the SL3000 tweeter used in the fifth generation SDA SRS series and in the RTA 15TL and RTA 11TL. The SL2500 is a cost reduced derivative of the SL3000 design. It was used in the Monitor 2 series speakers and in the RTA 8TL of the RTA series.
An alternative to the newer RD0 silk dome tweeter models is to track down the actual SL series tweeter, but those are not always available. Whatever replacement tweeter is chosen, it is highly recommend to invest in a Dayton Audio DATS V2 Audio Test System ($100) (or a similar speaker tester) in order to make sure that the tweeter is in proper working order.
Table 1 gives the typical electrical performance parameters of four of the five standard SDA tweeters. The nominal impedance of the SL2000 and RD0194 tweeters is 7.5 ohms. The nominal impedance of the SL2500, SL3000, and RD0198 tweeters is 5.6 ohms. The measurements in table 1 were made using the Dayton Audio DATS V2 Audio Test System.
Glossary of terms for table 1:
Qts - A measurement of the total electrical and mechanical control of a driver. (no units)
Qms - A measurement of the control coming from the speaker's mechanical suspension system (the surround and spider). (no units)
Qes - A measurement of the the control coming from the speaker's electrical suspension system (the voice coil and magnet). (no units)
fs - A measurement of the free air resonance of a driver. This is the point at which driver impedance is maximum. It is the point at which the weight of the moving parts of the speaker becomes balanced with the force of the speaker suspension when in motion. (measured in Hertz)
Re - The DC resistance (DCR) of the driver. This measurement will almost always be less than the driver's nominal impedance. (measured in ohms)
Zmax - The driver's impedance at resonance. (measured in ohms)
Le - A measurement of the voice coil inductance. As frequencies get higher there will be a rise in impedance above Re. This is because the voice coil is acting as an inductor. Consequently, the impedance of a speaker is not a fixed resistance, but can be represented as a curve that changes as the input frequency changes. Maximum impedance (Zmax) occurs at fs. (measured in millihenries)
The measured values in table 1 provide some quantitative insight into why the RD0 series tweeters are upgrades to the SL series tweeters and why they are subjectively preferred by many SDA enthusiasts.
Test Tweeters
I had SL2000, SL3000, RD0194, and RD0198 tweeters on hand. I found a used SL2500 tweeter and two new old stock SL2500 tweeters on eBay. As of this writing, I have not located SL1000 tweeters that I felt comfortable with purchasing.
![jk8ena790oue.jpg]()
Figure 1. SL2500 tweeters.
![yrrt09vlbog0.jpg]()
Figure 2. Column 1-SL2500 tweeters, Column 2-SL3000 tweeters, Column 3-RD0198 tweeters.
![41danrbbgin6.jpg]()
Figure 3. SL2500 left, SL3000 right.
The SL2500 is similar in construction to the SL3000, and could be used as a replacement for the SL3000. However, as its overall lower Q measurements show, the SL2500 has lower performance with regard to driver control. This translates to lower performance in reproducing high frequency speed and detail.
Conversely, the RD0 series replacement tweeters have overall better driver control performance than their respective SL series counterparts.
The dome of the SL3000 has a shiny metallic appearance due to its vapor deposited metal layers. The SL3000 dome is composed of a triple layered (Tri-laminate, or "TL") construction with a top layer of stainless steel, second layer of aluminum, and third layer of clear polyamide. The SL2500 has a dull appearance and has a black polymer coating on the front and rear sides. It is not clear to me at this time if the SL2500's dome has a triple layer (Tri-laminate) structure similar to the SL3000's.
![5r7xlbmuv5no.jpg]()
Figure 4. Rear side of SL2500 dome, left. Rear side of SL3000 dome, right.
![bpmeqab9lrtl.jpg]()
Figure 5. SL2000 left, RD0194 right.
The 1989 versions of the SDA CRS+ and SDA 2B can be modified to support replacement of the SL2000 tweeter with either the SL3000 or RD0198 tweeters. The modification consists of the addition of a 5.8 uF capacitor in parallel with the 2.7 ohm resistor. This modification creates a contour network that corrects the rising high frequency response that would result from installing the SL3000 or RD0198 in these speakers. The SDA CRS+ and SDA 2B use the same crossover circuit.
Phase And Impedance Curves
The following phase and impedance curves for the SL2000, SL2500, SL3000, RD0194, and RD0198 tweeters are given in figures 6-10. In addition to the difference in DC resistance between the SL1000/SL2000/RD0194 and SL2500/SL3000/RD0198 tweeters, the differences in phase and impedance response highlight another reason why tweeter replacements must be chosen with care.
![k60tgrjai18r.jpg]()
Figure 6. Phase and impedance curves for SL2000 tweeter.
![uht4mwym2lbs.jpg]()
Figure 7. Phase and impedance curves for RD0194 tweeter.
![kkhvnz4wngq0.jpg]()
Figure 8. Phase and impedance curves for SL2500 tweeter.
![3nxj3qhc4b2e.jpg]()
Figure 9. Phase and impedance curves for SL3000 tweeter.
![npis6m5t9we8.jpg]()
Figure 10. Phase and impedance curves for RD0198 tweeter.
PDF versions of these curves are attached below.
This article is aimed at those who want to be sure that they are choosing replacement and upgrade tweeters according to Polk's specifications and recommendations. Of course, owners are free to make whatever tweeter and driver replacements/substitutions they wish with their speakers. Some owners my subjectively believe that a non-standard tweeter replacement sounds better.
The five tweeters used in the SDA series are: the SL1000, the SL2000, the SL3000, the RD0194, and the RD0198.
The RD0194 silk dome tweeter is the appropriate replacement for the SL1000 and SL2000. The RD0194 is a drop in replacement for the SL2000, but not for the SL1000 since they are different sizes and have different footprints. Fitting an RD0194 into a cabinet made for the SL1000 will require some cabinet modification.
The RD0198 silk dome tweeter is the appropriate drop in replacement for the SL3000 tweeter used in the fifth generation SDA SRS series and in the RTA 15TL and RTA 11TL. The SL2500 is a cost reduced derivative of the SL3000 design. It was used in the Monitor 2 series speakers and in the RTA 8TL of the RTA series.
An alternative to the newer RD0 silk dome tweeter models is to track down the actual SL series tweeter, but those are not always available. Whatever replacement tweeter is chosen, it is highly recommend to invest in a Dayton Audio DATS V2 Audio Test System ($100) (or a similar speaker tester) in order to make sure that the tweeter is in proper working order.
Table 1 gives the typical electrical performance parameters of four of the five standard SDA tweeters. The nominal impedance of the SL2000 and RD0194 tweeters is 7.5 ohms. The nominal impedance of the SL2500, SL3000, and RD0198 tweeters is 5.6 ohms. The measurements in table 1 were made using the Dayton Audio DATS V2 Audio Test System.
Table 1. Measured Electrical Parameters Of SDA Tweeters
![rf0p7w4wqpcy.jpg]()
Glossary of terms for table 1:
Qts - A measurement of the total electrical and mechanical control of a driver. (no units)
Qms - A measurement of the control coming from the speaker's mechanical suspension system (the surround and spider). (no units)
Qes - A measurement of the the control coming from the speaker's electrical suspension system (the voice coil and magnet). (no units)
fs - A measurement of the free air resonance of a driver. This is the point at which driver impedance is maximum. It is the point at which the weight of the moving parts of the speaker becomes balanced with the force of the speaker suspension when in motion. (measured in Hertz)
Re - The DC resistance (DCR) of the driver. This measurement will almost always be less than the driver's nominal impedance. (measured in ohms)
Zmax - The driver's impedance at resonance. (measured in ohms)
Le - A measurement of the voice coil inductance. As frequencies get higher there will be a rise in impedance above Re. This is because the voice coil is acting as an inductor. Consequently, the impedance of a speaker is not a fixed resistance, but can be represented as a curve that changes as the input frequency changes. Maximum impedance (Zmax) occurs at fs. (measured in millihenries)
The measured values in table 1 provide some quantitative insight into why the RD0 series tweeters are upgrades to the SL series tweeters and why they are subjectively preferred by many SDA enthusiasts.
Test Tweeters
I had SL2000, SL3000, RD0194, and RD0198 tweeters on hand. I found a used SL2500 tweeter and two new old stock SL2500 tweeters on eBay. As of this writing, I have not located SL1000 tweeters that I felt comfortable with purchasing.
Figure 1. SL2500 tweeters.
Figure 2. Column 1-SL2500 tweeters, Column 2-SL3000 tweeters, Column 3-RD0198 tweeters.
Figure 3. SL2500 left, SL3000 right.
The SL2500 is similar in construction to the SL3000, and could be used as a replacement for the SL3000. However, as its overall lower Q measurements show, the SL2500 has lower performance with regard to driver control. This translates to lower performance in reproducing high frequency speed and detail.
Conversely, the RD0 series replacement tweeters have overall better driver control performance than their respective SL series counterparts.
The dome of the SL3000 has a shiny metallic appearance due to its vapor deposited metal layers. The SL3000 dome is composed of a triple layered (Tri-laminate, or "TL") construction with a top layer of stainless steel, second layer of aluminum, and third layer of clear polyamide. The SL2500 has a dull appearance and has a black polymer coating on the front and rear sides. It is not clear to me at this time if the SL2500's dome has a triple layer (Tri-laminate) structure similar to the SL3000's.
Figure 4. Rear side of SL2500 dome, left. Rear side of SL3000 dome, right.
Figure 5. SL2000 left, RD0194 right.
The 1989 versions of the SDA CRS+ and SDA 2B can be modified to support replacement of the SL2000 tweeter with either the SL3000 or RD0198 tweeters. The modification consists of the addition of a 5.8 uF capacitor in parallel with the 2.7 ohm resistor. This modification creates a contour network that corrects the rising high frequency response that would result from installing the SL3000 or RD0198 in these speakers. The SDA CRS+ and SDA 2B use the same crossover circuit.
Phase And Impedance Curves
The following phase and impedance curves for the SL2000, SL2500, SL3000, RD0194, and RD0198 tweeters are given in figures 6-10. In addition to the difference in DC resistance between the SL1000/SL2000/RD0194 and SL2500/SL3000/RD0198 tweeters, the differences in phase and impedance response highlight another reason why tweeter replacements must be chosen with care.
Figure 6. Phase and impedance curves for SL2000 tweeter.
Figure 7. Phase and impedance curves for RD0194 tweeter.
Figure 8. Phase and impedance curves for SL2500 tweeter.
Figure 9. Phase and impedance curves for SL3000 tweeter.
Figure 10. Phase and impedance curves for RD0198 tweeter.
PDF versions of these curves are attached below.
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What song or piece do you end your night with
Tonight I think it will be les preludes by Gustav Lizt
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CSi A6 lacking punch it once had
Hi,
A few months ago I purchased a CSi A6 center channel speaker to pair with my RTIA5 towers. I recently purchased a pair of RTIA3’s to finish off my set. When I ran my microphone setup after hooking up my 3’s my CSi A6 hasn’t been the same. My receiver used to always set the crossover to around the 60 mark (for the CSi A6), but now it will always set it to 180-200. It lacks all its punch it once had when I first bought it (even if I manually set the crossover back down to 60-70 it would always previously be.)
Contacted Polk, they figured the crossover inside the speaker had gone bad and sent me a replacement crossover. I received the new crossover and replaced it, but the issue still remains. No punch, lacks mids and overall just quieter than when I first purchased the speaker.
So my question is, is it the two 6.5” drivers in the CSi A6? Do they need to be replaced?
My receiver is the Onkyo TX-RZ810. I tested my older and much smaller center speaker the CSi A6 replaced and the receiver sets the crossover for that one at 100-120 (which it has always been around, even on past receivers.) With my old one testing “normal” that leads me to believe it is in fact the two 6.5” drivers.
If anyone has any ideas to help me figure this out, it would be very much appreciated.
Side note, I’ve emailed Polk back THREE times now about getting two new replacement 6.5” drivers (as I’m still well within my warranty) and those emails have been ignored so far.
Thanks
Shaun
A few months ago I purchased a CSi A6 center channel speaker to pair with my RTIA5 towers. I recently purchased a pair of RTIA3’s to finish off my set. When I ran my microphone setup after hooking up my 3’s my CSi A6 hasn’t been the same. My receiver used to always set the crossover to around the 60 mark (for the CSi A6), but now it will always set it to 180-200. It lacks all its punch it once had when I first bought it (even if I manually set the crossover back down to 60-70 it would always previously be.)
Contacted Polk, they figured the crossover inside the speaker had gone bad and sent me a replacement crossover. I received the new crossover and replaced it, but the issue still remains. No punch, lacks mids and overall just quieter than when I first purchased the speaker.
So my question is, is it the two 6.5” drivers in the CSi A6? Do they need to be replaced?
My receiver is the Onkyo TX-RZ810. I tested my older and much smaller center speaker the CSi A6 replaced and the receiver sets the crossover for that one at 100-120 (which it has always been around, even on past receivers.) With my old one testing “normal” that leads me to believe it is in fact the two 6.5” drivers.
If anyone has any ideas to help me figure this out, it would be very much appreciated.
Side note, I’ve emailed Polk back THREE times now about getting two new replacement 6.5” drivers (as I’m still well within my warranty) and those emails have been ignored so far.
Thanks
Shaun
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Consolidation sale RTI LSiM Yamaha
So with the new baby coming in few months I was asked to baby proof the front room; which meant getting the two channel off the main floor and taking it to the basement HT.
Well two systems in one room doesn’t work for me so it’s all gotta go and thanks to Dabutcher I have their replacements on the way.
Local pickup Columbus Ohio only for any of the large speakers. Shipping is not included in any of the prices. Prefer PayPal.
All gear is fully functional, like new, smoke and pet hair free condition.
Polkies of 100 posts or more receive first consideration.
LSiM 705s Mahogany 2 years old - $950
Yamaha A-S801 Integrated - 1 year old. Awesome pair with 705![;)]( ";)")
$$650
Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Gloss Black with tan cork mat - $275 (Tone arm cable replaced)
RTI bundle in Cherry
RTI12s RTI6s and CSi3 - $700
Yamaha RX-A 1010 - A4L refurb $375
Closet cleaning:
Emotiva CMX-2 Power Conditioner DC filter. $50
Marantz AV560 preamp/processor - vintage - works well - no remote. $50
Pics available
Well two systems in one room doesn’t work for me so it’s all gotta go and thanks to Dabutcher I have their replacements on the way.
Local pickup Columbus Ohio only for any of the large speakers. Shipping is not included in any of the prices. Prefer PayPal.
All gear is fully functional, like new, smoke and pet hair free condition.
Polkies of 100 posts or more receive first consideration.
LSiM 705s Mahogany 2 years old - $950
Yamaha A-S801 Integrated - 1 year old. Awesome pair with 705
$$650Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Gloss Black with tan cork mat - $275 (Tone arm cable replaced)
RTI bundle in Cherry
RTI12s RTI6s and CSi3 - $700
Yamaha RX-A 1010 - A4L refurb $375
Closet cleaning:
Emotiva CMX-2 Power Conditioner DC filter. $50
Marantz AV560 preamp/processor - vintage - works well - no remote. $50
Pics available
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Corvette Advice sought....
I am looking at getting a used Corvette, and have narrowed the choices down to a 1978-82 C3, a 1990-93 ZL1, or a 2000-03 Z06...
The Z06 would be a high mile car (over 75k miles) the ZR1 about 50k miles, and the C3 would be around 25k miles....
My budget is around 20k, and nice cars can be found for all three around that price point. I am leaning towards the ZL1 because that car represents the rebirth of performance not only for the Corvette, but for many other cars as well. It is also the rarest, and the car I have my sights on is a 1 of 3 built in that color/trim. Drawback to the ZL1/Z06 is that there is nothing I can do on these cars that won’t require a very competent mechanic.
The C3 cars are still fun, and most of the things the car will need I can handle on my own. I am looking for something to work on with my son, and something to enjoy with him as well. A C3... it will be another 20years before he will be able to see over the hood!
Any insight will be appreciated. I would ask over on the vette forums, but they tend to be biased towards what they have in their driveways...
Thanks
The Z06 would be a high mile car (over 75k miles) the ZR1 about 50k miles, and the C3 would be around 25k miles....
My budget is around 20k, and nice cars can be found for all three around that price point. I am leaning towards the ZL1 because that car represents the rebirth of performance not only for the Corvette, but for many other cars as well. It is also the rarest, and the car I have my sights on is a 1 of 3 built in that color/trim. Drawback to the ZL1/Z06 is that there is nothing I can do on these cars that won’t require a very competent mechanic.
The C3 cars are still fun, and most of the things the car will need I can handle on my own. I am looking for something to work on with my son, and something to enjoy with him as well. A C3... it will be another 20years before he will be able to see over the hood!
Any insight will be appreciated. I would ask over on the vette forums, but they tend to be biased towards what they have in their driveways...
Thanks
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texas style brisket k.i.s.s.
here's a smoked brisket recipe I found i'm going to try next brisket cook.
BluDawgs Brisket
K.I S.S. some of the best brisket you will ever eat! Total cook time including the rest 8 hrs or less. I promise it will be as moist as mornin dew on the lilly, tender as a mothers love, pure beefy smoky goodness.
1 packer 12-15 lb
Trim off the hard fat on each side of the flat thin the fat cap to 1/4"
Mix your Rub
1 part kosher salt 4 parts Med grind Black peppa by volume( this is a true 50/50 BY weight)
apply a coat of rub you need to be able to see the meat through the rub clearly.
Pre heat the pit to 300 deg
place brisket on the pit Fat Cap Down and point to the firebox unless it is a RF cooker then point to away from FB
Maintain pit between 275-325 if cookin on a stick burner
cook Brisket 4 hrs
remove from pit wrap in a single layer of Butcher paper Return to pit Fat cap up.
after 1 hr probe the thicket part of the Flat only! If it isn't *probe tender it should be within 1 hr.
once it is probe tender remove from the pit keep it wrapped in the paper you cooked it in and allow it to rest on your counter until the Internal temp reaches 150 this will take about two hrs.
Don't ever slice more than you can eat big pieces retain moisture and won't dry up on you like slices will.
*PROBE TENDER>This is the feel that is mimicked by cutting room temperature butter with a hot knife, there should be no drag
BluDawgs Brisket
K.I S.S. some of the best brisket you will ever eat! Total cook time including the rest 8 hrs or less. I promise it will be as moist as mornin dew on the lilly, tender as a mothers love, pure beefy smoky goodness.
1 packer 12-15 lb
Trim off the hard fat on each side of the flat thin the fat cap to 1/4"
Mix your Rub
1 part kosher salt 4 parts Med grind Black peppa by volume( this is a true 50/50 BY weight)
apply a coat of rub you need to be able to see the meat through the rub clearly.
Pre heat the pit to 300 deg
place brisket on the pit Fat Cap Down and point to the firebox unless it is a RF cooker then point to away from FB
Maintain pit between 275-325 if cookin on a stick burner
cook Brisket 4 hrs
remove from pit wrap in a single layer of Butcher paper Return to pit Fat cap up.
after 1 hr probe the thicket part of the Flat only! If it isn't *probe tender it should be within 1 hr.
once it is probe tender remove from the pit keep it wrapped in the paper you cooked it in and allow it to rest on your counter until the Internal temp reaches 150 this will take about two hrs.
Don't ever slice more than you can eat big pieces retain moisture and won't dry up on you like slices will.
*PROBE TENDER>This is the feel that is mimicked by cutting room temperature butter with a hot knife, there should be no drag
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Driver and Passive Radiator Rings For The SDA CRS+
Introduction
I thought this mod on one pair of my "baby SDA's" would be as easy as a day at the beach, but it turned out to be more like a long day at work. It was worth it.:) This pair of 1989 version CRS+'s is clad in the elegant black oak veneer with satin finish. The following modifications were previously performed:
1. Crossover upgrade with Mills MRA-12 resistors, Clarity Cap and AudioCap polypropylene capacitors, "4.1TL" modification which allowed the use of the RD-0198 (SL3000 replacement) tweeter.
2. Mortite seals for tweeters, drivers and passive radiators.
3. Custom heavy gauge SDA interconnect cable.
4. Replacement of SL2000 tweeters with RD-0198 tweeters.
5. Vampire binding posts.
6. Foam rubber damping material on the driver and passive radiator baskets.
My experience installing rings in my SDA SRS 1.2TL's is discussed here. My experience installing rings in my SDA SRS's is discussed here.
Based on my previous experiences, I expected this modification to take about two hours. It actually took a little over five hours due to some unforeseen difficulties. This time included a half hour to install Dynamat Extreme vibration damping material on the driver and passive radiator baskets.
![CRSCabs-Rings-s.jpg]()
Figure 1. CRS+ cabinets prepped for surgery.
![DynamatDk-s.jpg]()
Figure 2. Foam rubber insulation on the metal baskets was replaced with Dynamat Extreme.
Some Surprises
Installation of the driver rings was easy and went as expected. I was surprised by the brittleness of the cabinet material. Figures 3 and 4 show the severe cracking that occurred during the drilling of two of the driver ring holes. Most of the other drilled holes exhibited much less severe, or no, cracking. The grade of MDF used for the CRS+ cabinet material is a lot different from that used in the SRS series SDA's.
![crackedhole2-s.jpg]()
Figure 3. Cracked driver hole on right CRS+.
![crackedhole1-s.jpg]()
Figure 4. Cracked driver hole on left CRS+.
Two of the driver cutouts were close to cabinet corners that had about 10.8 pounds of glue on them. Some of that glue needed to be cut and pried off to clear space for the rings (figure 5). I used a very sharp box cutter to slice through the glue and a large flat screwdriver to pry it off.
![CornerGlue-s.jpg]()
Figure 5. Gobs and gobs of glue in the corners, some of which had to be cut away to provide space for this ring.
Figure 6 shows the amount of glue that had to be removed near one cabinet corner, the toothpicks that were formerly used to "fix" five stripped driver screw holes and some of the cracked off MDF material that resulted from drilling. Considering the brittleness of the cabinet material, it is easy to see why the screw holes were so prone to stripping. Fortunately, the rings make that concern a thing of the past.:)
![Glue-toothpks-partcl-s.jpg]()
Figure 6. Top to bottom: glue that needed to be removed, "toothpick fixes" that were used to secure stripped driver screw holes, cracked
off cabinet material due to drilling.
When I started to install the ring for one of the passive radiators, I discovered that the drilling template was too big to fit inside the passive radiator cabinet cutout. I measured the cabinet cutout diameter as 10-10/64", the passive radiator rim diameter as 10-6/64", the ring diameter as 10-15/64" and the drilling template diameter as 10-15/64". The drilling template diameter should have been about the same as the passive radiator rim diameter, but it (and the ring diameter) exceeded it by a little over 1/16th" all around (figure 7). The larger ring diameter was not an issue since the ring holes lined up with the passive radiator rim holes and the ring was going inside the cabinet.
When I taped the over-sized template over the passive radiator cutout, I saw that four of the template holes lined up perfectly with the four screw holes in the cabinet cutout. The template's internal diameter also matched the internal diameter of the cabinet cutout. Therefore, the only thing wrong was the template's external diameter.
Larry (forum member TOOLFORLIFEFAN) said that he had two versions of 10" rings and templates and he had sent me the wrong ones. He is cutting me a new template and rings this weekend and I should have them next week. However, I wanted to get these speakers back in service, so I decided to grind off the excess steel. I had two options:
1. Do the grinding myself (hours).
2. Take the template to the machine shop at work and have it ground in about five minutes.
Actually, option 2 was less efficient and more time consuming because, by the time I spent an hour (round-trip) going to/from my work location, then tracked down someone in the machine shop to do the grinding, then answered 689 questions about why I needed this done and what I was going to use it for, then listened to them explain how much other work was ahead of me, probably four or five days would have expired and the replacement rings and template from Larry would already be here.
![CRSRingOversize1close-s.jpg]()
Figure 7. Passive radiator laid on top of its steel ring.
I used a compass to draw a circle 1/16" from the edge of the template, then a Dremel with grinding stone attachment #8193 was used to grind off the excess steel. It took two and one-half hours (four 30 minute sessions) with rest breaks in between grinding sessions to allow the Dremel and my hands to rest.
![template-dremel-s.jpg]()
Figure 8. Setting up to draw a ring around the template for a grinding guide.
![sparks-dk-crp-s.jpg]()
Figure 9. Me grind you long time. Of course I didn't do the real grinding in the dark. I dimmed the lights so the sparks would show up
better for this picture.
The grinding was tedious, but it was a labor of love. I fully expected that the end result would be Such Good Sound that all my toil and tedium would be quickly forgotten the moment I fired up my "new" CRS+'s.:)
![ClampedPRTemplate-s.jpg]()
Figure 10. The adjusted template worked as required. I numbered sections of the template so that I always knew where I was as I was
grinding.
![PRGrille-RingLineup-s.jpg]()
Figure 11. The famous, "temperamental" CRS+ passive radiator grille gets sized up for drilling.
How many of you CRS owners have passive radiators where one, or more, or all of the screws are going in at an angle instead of straight in? This is due to the fact that care was often not used to perfectly align the holes in the metal passive radiator grille with the holes in the passive radiator basket rim. This misalignment often caused the passive radiator/grille screws to be deflected and go into the wood cabinet at an angle. I laid the passive grille on top of the passive ring and placed dots of red paint where the new holes were to be drilled. The grille was secured to a 12" x 12" piece of scrap wood with two of the original wood screws to hold it for drilling. The rim edges of the CRS grilles were often cut out of round. This could cause problems if the grille holes were not reinstalled with the original orientation to match the corresponding cabinet holes. I marked the "top" of the ring and the "top" of the grille so that they both would maintain proper orientation at installation.
![CRSPR8Bolts-s.jpg]()
Figure 12. Finished CRS+ passive radiator and grille installation, with an optimal eight button head hex screws instead of the standard
four wood screws.
![Driver-SHCS-s.jpg]()
Figure 13. Finished driver installation with four 8/32 socket head cap screws (just like the SRS's use) rather than four wood screws.
I thought this mod on one pair of my "baby SDA's" would be as easy as a day at the beach, but it turned out to be more like a long day at work. It was worth it.:) This pair of 1989 version CRS+'s is clad in the elegant black oak veneer with satin finish. The following modifications were previously performed:
1. Crossover upgrade with Mills MRA-12 resistors, Clarity Cap and AudioCap polypropylene capacitors, "4.1TL" modification which allowed the use of the RD-0198 (SL3000 replacement) tweeter.
2. Mortite seals for tweeters, drivers and passive radiators.
3. Custom heavy gauge SDA interconnect cable.
4. Replacement of SL2000 tweeters with RD-0198 tweeters.
5. Vampire binding posts.
6. Foam rubber damping material on the driver and passive radiator baskets.
My experience installing rings in my SDA SRS 1.2TL's is discussed here. My experience installing rings in my SDA SRS's is discussed here.
Based on my previous experiences, I expected this modification to take about two hours. It actually took a little over five hours due to some unforeseen difficulties. This time included a half hour to install Dynamat Extreme vibration damping material on the driver and passive radiator baskets.
Figure 1. CRS+ cabinets prepped for surgery.
Figure 2. Foam rubber insulation on the metal baskets was replaced with Dynamat Extreme.
Some Surprises
Installation of the driver rings was easy and went as expected. I was surprised by the brittleness of the cabinet material. Figures 3 and 4 show the severe cracking that occurred during the drilling of two of the driver ring holes. Most of the other drilled holes exhibited much less severe, or no, cracking. The grade of MDF used for the CRS+ cabinet material is a lot different from that used in the SRS series SDA's.
Figure 3. Cracked driver hole on right CRS+.
Figure 4. Cracked driver hole on left CRS+.
Two of the driver cutouts were close to cabinet corners that had about 10.8 pounds of glue on them. Some of that glue needed to be cut and pried off to clear space for the rings (figure 5). I used a very sharp box cutter to slice through the glue and a large flat screwdriver to pry it off.
Figure 5. Gobs and gobs of glue in the corners, some of which had to be cut away to provide space for this ring.
Figure 6 shows the amount of glue that had to be removed near one cabinet corner, the toothpicks that were formerly used to "fix" five stripped driver screw holes and some of the cracked off MDF material that resulted from drilling. Considering the brittleness of the cabinet material, it is easy to see why the screw holes were so prone to stripping. Fortunately, the rings make that concern a thing of the past.:)
Figure 6. Top to bottom: glue that needed to be removed, "toothpick fixes" that were used to secure stripped driver screw holes, cracked
off cabinet material due to drilling.
When I started to install the ring for one of the passive radiators, I discovered that the drilling template was too big to fit inside the passive radiator cabinet cutout. I measured the cabinet cutout diameter as 10-10/64", the passive radiator rim diameter as 10-6/64", the ring diameter as 10-15/64" and the drilling template diameter as 10-15/64". The drilling template diameter should have been about the same as the passive radiator rim diameter, but it (and the ring diameter) exceeded it by a little over 1/16th" all around (figure 7). The larger ring diameter was not an issue since the ring holes lined up with the passive radiator rim holes and the ring was going inside the cabinet.
When I taped the over-sized template over the passive radiator cutout, I saw that four of the template holes lined up perfectly with the four screw holes in the cabinet cutout. The template's internal diameter also matched the internal diameter of the cabinet cutout. Therefore, the only thing wrong was the template's external diameter.
Larry (forum member TOOLFORLIFEFAN) said that he had two versions of 10" rings and templates and he had sent me the wrong ones. He is cutting me a new template and rings this weekend and I should have them next week. However, I wanted to get these speakers back in service, so I decided to grind off the excess steel. I had two options:
1. Do the grinding myself (hours).
2. Take the template to the machine shop at work and have it ground in about five minutes.
Actually, option 2 was less efficient and more time consuming because, by the time I spent an hour (round-trip) going to/from my work location, then tracked down someone in the machine shop to do the grinding, then answered 689 questions about why I needed this done and what I was going to use it for, then listened to them explain how much other work was ahead of me, probably four or five days would have expired and the replacement rings and template from Larry would already be here.
Figure 7. Passive radiator laid on top of its steel ring.
I used a compass to draw a circle 1/16" from the edge of the template, then a Dremel with grinding stone attachment #8193 was used to grind off the excess steel. It took two and one-half hours (four 30 minute sessions) with rest breaks in between grinding sessions to allow the Dremel and my hands to rest.
Figure 8. Setting up to draw a ring around the template for a grinding guide.
Figure 9. Me grind you long time. Of course I didn't do the real grinding in the dark. I dimmed the lights so the sparks would show up
better for this picture.
The grinding was tedious, but it was a labor of love. I fully expected that the end result would be Such Good Sound that all my toil and tedium would be quickly forgotten the moment I fired up my "new" CRS+'s.:)
Figure 10. The adjusted template worked as required. I numbered sections of the template so that I always knew where I was as I was
grinding.
Figure 11. The famous, "temperamental" CRS+ passive radiator grille gets sized up for drilling.
How many of you CRS owners have passive radiators where one, or more, or all of the screws are going in at an angle instead of straight in? This is due to the fact that care was often not used to perfectly align the holes in the metal passive radiator grille with the holes in the passive radiator basket rim. This misalignment often caused the passive radiator/grille screws to be deflected and go into the wood cabinet at an angle. I laid the passive grille on top of the passive ring and placed dots of red paint where the new holes were to be drilled. The grille was secured to a 12" x 12" piece of scrap wood with two of the original wood screws to hold it for drilling. The rim edges of the CRS grilles were often cut out of round. This could cause problems if the grille holes were not reinstalled with the original orientation to match the corresponding cabinet holes. I marked the "top" of the ring and the "top" of the grille so that they both would maintain proper orientation at installation.
Figure 12. Finished CRS+ passive radiator and grille installation, with an optimal eight button head hex screws instead of the standard
four wood screws.
Figure 13. Finished driver installation with four 8/32 socket head cap screws (just like the SRS's use) rather than four wood screws.
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Off center subwoofer magnets
I have been given a Definitive Tech 8 inch subwoofer driver that was thought to be blown, but it turns out that the magnets have slipped at one point or another. The coil reads 4 ohms with a multimeter so it is for sure not blown. As far as I can tell, they are still glued together, although one magnet is significantly off center, and the backplate is entered on that magnet. I have looked for videos and forum posts about this but everything only is for getting the magnet back on.
Thanks,
Micah
P.S. here is a picture of the sub, looks to be a quality unit with double stacked magnets and a 1.5 inch coil.
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Thanks,
Micah
P.S. here is a picture of the sub, looks to be a quality unit with double stacked magnets and a 1.5 inch coil.
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Florida Audio Expo 2019 - New Show announcement!
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Front presence speakers?
I am thinking about installing the RCS II speakers at the top left and right of my room to use as mains while I finish up my half bath and flooring (will free up floor space during the reno) and once it is complete use them as front presence speakers.
What is everyones thoughts on front presence?
What is everyones thoughts on front presence?
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Jbl 4312 crossovers with Dayton replacements
This is a pair of used perfect working jbl 4312 crossovers. These came out of the 4312’s I was gifted.
Includes the four oem mounting screws. One of the wires got messed up from pulling it out of the hole it was in.
Price is $140 shipped includes everything or you can leave off the Dayton caps for less. I take PayPal gift.
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Includes the four oem mounting screws. One of the wires got messed up from pulling it out of the hole it was in.
Price is $140 shipped includes everything or you can leave off the Dayton caps for less. I take PayPal gift.
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Post a video... any video
I just realized we had a picture version, but not a video version; so post away.
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nbrowser Kind of Friday Night
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Test
Hello all, I am a newbie here.
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Help needed for my Son and Grandson
If you can, please help. My Son, an Iraqi war veteran, has MS and has been off work for 2 months due to a broken bone in his foot. You can read more on his gofundme page.
https://www.gofundme.com/5rde6zc
Every little bit helps, so please donate anything you can. I wish I had a big bank account and could help him more. Everything I have is tied up in Douglas Connection, and I'm sending him what I can, but it's not nearly enough. I'll be listing some cables I have on hand in the next couple of days so I can help him out more. To buy these cables all you will need to do is donate to his go fund me page. That's the best way I can figure to help him right now.
Thank you for anything you can do to help my Son and Grandson.
Doug
https://www.gofundme.com/5rde6zc
Every little bit helps, so please donate anything you can. I wish I had a big bank account and could help him more. Everything I have is tied up in Douglas Connection, and I'm sending him what I can, but it's not nearly enough. I'll be listing some cables I have on hand in the next couple of days so I can help him out more. To buy these cables all you will need to do is donate to his go fund me page. That's the best way I can figure to help him right now.
Thank you for anything you can do to help my Son and Grandson.
Doug
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FS: Vincent SV-236MK Hybrid Integrated
I am looking to sell my Vincent SV-236MK Hybrid Integrated.
This is a very well reviewed integrated that I have enjoyed having around but I am rapidly discovering that it is simply too much power for my speakers/room so I am moving back to separates and moving my EL34 based amp back into the mix. It's 30wpc is much more suited to my very high efficiency speakers that are designed to be run on SET amps.
There is nothing wrong with the Vincent and I was conservatively rate it at an 8/10.
There is nary a scratch or scuff on her and she sounds as good as she looks.
With a pair of 12AX7 tubes in the preamp section (and a third displayed on the front panel with dimmable LEDs to provide extra eye candy) and the first 10 watts delivered as pure class A, you get all that juicy tubey goodness with the brute force of solid state when you need it.
I haven't gotten a chance to take any pictures as I am currently breaking down my rack but will post some up soon.
https://www.stereophile.com/integratedamps/vincent_tubeline_sv-236mk_integrated_amplifier/index.html
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/vincent2/1.html
The above reviews give you a brief look at what you're buying.
Asking price is $1100 which will include shipping to the lower 48. The amp comes with the remote, allen wrench for tube swaps (to remove the top), stock power cord, original double box and foam inserts as well as the manual.
Preferred payment method is via Paypal Friends and Family and I will reserve first "dibs" for active forum members of 100 posts or more for the first week. Regular Paypal payments, I ask for an extra 3% to offset the Paypal fee for those who aren't comfortable with Friends and Family payments.
Thanks for taking the time to read this ad and shoot me a PM with any questions you may have.
This is a very well reviewed integrated that I have enjoyed having around but I am rapidly discovering that it is simply too much power for my speakers/room so I am moving back to separates and moving my EL34 based amp back into the mix. It's 30wpc is much more suited to my very high efficiency speakers that are designed to be run on SET amps.
There is nothing wrong with the Vincent and I was conservatively rate it at an 8/10.
There is nary a scratch or scuff on her and she sounds as good as she looks.
With a pair of 12AX7 tubes in the preamp section (and a third displayed on the front panel with dimmable LEDs to provide extra eye candy) and the first 10 watts delivered as pure class A, you get all that juicy tubey goodness with the brute force of solid state when you need it.
I haven't gotten a chance to take any pictures as I am currently breaking down my rack but will post some up soon.
https://www.stereophile.com/integratedamps/vincent_tubeline_sv-236mk_integrated_amplifier/index.html
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/vincent2/1.html
The above reviews give you a brief look at what you're buying.
Asking price is $1100 which will include shipping to the lower 48. The amp comes with the remote, allen wrench for tube swaps (to remove the top), stock power cord, original double box and foam inserts as well as the manual.
Preferred payment method is via Paypal Friends and Family and I will reserve first "dibs" for active forum members of 100 posts or more for the first week. Regular Paypal payments, I ask for an extra 3% to offset the Paypal fee for those who aren't comfortable with Friends and Family payments.
Thanks for taking the time to read this ad and shoot me a PM with any questions you may have.
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Why Are The Spaces In Our Signatures...
Twice the size they were a couple days ago? I'm talking about when you push the return/enter key to add a space. What was the reason for the change? To make everyone's signature even longer? It's the little things that bother me.
Before:
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Before:
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Your taste in music says a lot about your bank account?
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